Hey Kirk! You are amazing FYI! I just recently did a shoot on my contax 645 and I mistakenly thought I put a roll of Fuji film so I exposed my film as though it was Fuji 400h but it was actually portra 400, so I set my ISO at 200 and retracted my meter and put it in a 45 degree angle. Any way I can save my film from being way too yellow? Do I need to tell my lab anything before I send the film? Or will scanning with frontier help? Thanks!
As for your film, you will be fine. If you use a good lab like The FIND Lab or Indie Film Lab they will most likely remove most of the yellow cast. If not you can remove it yourself in Photoshop with a curves adjustment. Just go into the blue channel and fiddle with that and you can remove the yellow cast easily.
Hello Kirk! Thank you soooo much for answering all our questions! There is no more Sekonic L 358 light meter on the market :-( any suggestions?
I would try to buy one used then (on eBay.) You can also look for the L-508.
I think the meters with aperture priority (you set the aperture, the meter gives you the shutter speed) is the only way to go. Thats is why I like those two models. I also like the non-touchscreen ones. I like actual controls and buttons. Much faster and more reliable IMHO,
Hi Kirk! Have you got an experience with Ektar 100 film? If so, how do you rate it? Thanks!
Rate it at 100 and pretend it is slide film (so expose very carefully.) If you don’t and you happen to overexpose it by more than a stop, expect wildly saturated colors (which can look cool) and terribly red skin tones.
Hi Kirk! I would love to finally nail down the perfect "look" with my scans so they don't need any touchups aside from blemishes and such. I feel like even though I meter consistently, my work comes back looking different each time from the lab on a Noritsu scanner. A lot of people recommend frontier scanners, but the frontier scans I've received back always look dark, blue, and super contrasty, no matter what the film. Any tips on what I should be doing differently?
If you are metering your film correctly (I go over this in previous Tumblr Q&A’s) then you NEED, MUST, ASAP, RIGHT AWAY, begin a relationship with your lab and talk with them about how you want your scans to look.
The scanner operator can only guess what aesthetic you want from your film scans and the film is incredibly flexible and can be made to look so many different ways at the time of scanning.
Once you establish a relationship with your lab your scans will look better and better until you hardly have to do anything at all when you get them. It is SO WORTH IT.
Hya Kirk! How do you protect your film while in Airport? I've heard some of those xray guard bags don't really work..
I insist on having everything hand checked every time no matter the speed of film. I get to the airport at least 2 hours ahead of time. I don’t use the lead xray bags because they just ask you to take the film out anyway :)
What is the number one piece of advice you would tell a new wedding photographer, when it comes to earning a living?
Figure out what your real costs are and how much you need to make per event. This includes cost of living, not just shooting the wedding. And having a salary for yourself. And providing retirement saving and medical coverage for yourself.
There are MANY MANY MANY wedding photographers that undercharge thinking they need to to get business. They are hurting others photographers doing this, obviously, but really they are screwing themselves, because they will burn out and fade away before they get to be any good at what they do if they don’t charge what they need to charge.
Jonathan Canlas’ FIND:Biz Guide ebook is an excellent way to figure all this out. It certainly changed my business for the better.
BONUS TIP: Edit your work veryveryvery tightly. Almost every beginning photographer shows WAAAAAAAY too much work of mediocre quality. Just show your best work, the kind of work you want to do in the future, and you will GET more of that work.