Anonymous asked: Hi, im currently scanning my first rolls of Portra 400 (rated @200) with a Nikon LS-9000, do you know any tipps, tricks or tutorials to get your typical airy look? I tried everything, but nothing works :-(..
I don’t think it is possible to get the look you want on a consumer scanner. I had a LS-9000 myself and could not achieve it no matter what I did. SO frustrating.
The only way is with a Fuji Frontier scanner. I own one myself. They are the only way to go if you need to get the right look and need to scan lots of film quickly.
There are pro-labs you are probably aware of that can get this look too, like The Find Lab or Indie Film Lab. They are both excellent.
Anonymous asked: Hi Kirk!! I love the way you combine film and digital, I truly cannot tell the difference in your images and that is awesome!! I am looking forward for the release of your preset (already have your ebook, btw it's really good, thanks!!). My question is this: in your digital camera, do you also overexpose a bit (maybe 1 stop or so) and then apply your preset to make it look like film? My name is Adriana, thank you very much for all the help you give!
I’m glad you liked the ebook.
To match digital to film, the optimal digital negative should be exposed correctly.
Not overexposed or underexposed.
However, the way my presets work, you can be a bit under or over exposed and it will look great. Be careful not to overexpose TOO MUCH or you will actually lose information in the highlights forever.
Anonymous asked: Do you have an idea of when you will be releasing your preset? I'm so anxious/excited for it!
Soon! Good things come to those who wait.
The Canon and Nikon versions are complete. The backend website is being built as I type this.
Sign up at mastinlabs.com to be the first to know when we launch!
Anonymous asked: Hi Kirk...a wonderful new friend just gave me a Canon 1V and Fuji 400h film. I love pastel, dreamy pictures and this is what I want to achieve. By setting my aperture to 2.0, rating this film at 100 in camera and on the Sekonic L358 meter, and metering for shadows, would I want to see at least +1/3, +2/3 or even +1 on my exposure compensation reading? If I don't see this, and my exposure was still at 0, would I want to change my shutter speed until I see a change in my overexposure?
If you are using your meter correctly - and it looks like you are - I would just ignore the in-camera meter completely. I never look at mine anymore.
The problem with an in-camera meter is that it is easily fooled by specular light (bright reflections, the sun etc.) and give you the wrong reading.
Anonymous asked: Kirk, thank you for sharing such great information! Do you use only Lightroom to process your digital images or do you use Photoshop (or some other software) as well? Thank you!
90% can be done in Lightroom.
The other 10% I do in Photoshop - like using the Liquify tool, or doing a basic curves adjustment to make a film scan perfect.
Anonymous asked: Hi Kirk, I have to tell you that I love your film work. I wondered what type of lighting to you use when shooting a wedding?
Natural light, window light, open shade, sunlight :)
Flash? Not so much. Never with film. But sometimes with digital in a dark reception when people are dancing.
Anonymous asked: What kind of computer do you scan into with the Fuji SP 3000 or does it have a computer onboard?
It has an onboard computer that contains the software. An old Toshiba PC I think….
When the image is scanned, I have that scan sent to a portable HD. Soon I will have it networked with my iMac so the scan is sent directly to Lightroom via the Lightroom sync-folder option.
Anonymous asked: Will your presets only work with Lightroom, not photoshop ?
Anonymous asked: Being a hybrid film/ digital shooter do you find matching aspect ratios of final pictures difficult? Are you cropping medium format film to match digital or leaving them different?
It is totally easy to match aspect ratios in Lightroom. I have a crop setting for each major kind of format. I just apply that to my 35mm digital work to help it match my film work.
Anonymous asked: How do you use the Sekonic L-358 to meter for a scene without people? Say a vast landscape?
I keep the bulb retracted (sucked in) and meter with the bulb facing me. The key is that I am in the same kind of light as the landscape. If I am in the shade and the landscape is in full sun it will be incorrect.
An alternative is to use the Sunny 16 Rule which works really well when you have the time to work it out and the subject is not moving :)
Anonymous asked: Hey Kirk, how do you 'know' that when metering for 400H you set your light meter at 100 ISO, or that Portra 400 you set your light meter at 200 ISO. Did you just get this from experimenting with your exposures and scans? I am curious because if you have a different type film (Portra 160 for example) how would you estimate what ISO you need to set your meter at for the proper overexposure look...hope this makes sense!
Fuji 400H FOR SURE looks best shot as though it were ISO 100 film. That means intentionally overexposing it 2 stops.
Portra 400 on the other hand….
Well if you look back through my TUmblr and my ealrier Formspring account, you will see that I used to rate it at ISO 200, then eventually ISO 250, and now I rate it at ISO 320.
Over time I learned that Portra 400 is much less yellow and still has very open shadows near box speed. When I used to rate it at ISO 200 for example, I would open up the shadows slightly more but at the cost of a sometimes severe yellow color cast. I see this all the time in scans I look at from others that shoot with Portra 400 at ISO 200 or ISO 100.
All in all, the Kodak series of films should be shot near box speed:
Fuji films on the other hand need much more overexposure - they won’t get a yellow cast no matter what you do since they have such a cool color palette to begin with. The tradeoff is that they absolutely fall apart if shot even 1/2 stop underexposed. That is why you can’t go wrong overexposing Fuji film about as much as you can get away with in terms of shutter speed.
I hope that helps.
Anonymous asked: You're killing me with this preset launch! I'm an American consumer and I demand that I no longer need to be patient!
Anonymous asked: Hey Kirk! What battery do you prefer to use with your Contax 645? Thanks!
I look for the cheapest name brand 2CR5’s I can find on Amazon. And buy a bunch of them. And keep at least 4 in my bag at all times.
Anonymous asked: Hi Kirk, I'm a 19 year old aspiring photographer in the process of building my portfolio. I was recently approached by a new clothing company in town that saw my work and wanted me to take some photos for their website. My question is, how much should I charge them? I am not quite established yet, so I don't want to charge too much, but I do value my photography and equipment so I don't want to give my services away for free. Any ideas of how and what I should charge? Thank you.
You need FotoQuote and FotoBiz ASAP. They are two programs that will help you price your work according to usage and licensing periods. These programs will also help you create invoices, contracts, everything you need to tak eon commercial or stock photography work without an agent.
The FotoBiz website is a bit old-school but trust me it is the very best program to use. I’m not sure what I would do without it and it has paid for itself over and over again by helping me to get paid what I am worth.
Anonymous asked: Kirk, great stuff here. As you delve into B&W be sure to give the Fuji Neopan 400 a try. One of the most beautiful black and white films I have ever used. Much better than Tri-X IMHO. Pushes well too. They discontinued the 1600, which was the most amazing film at that speed. Just loved it... so sad.
Thank you for your recommendations!
Yeah I do need to explore BW a bit more. I am just so into color that I haven’t really allowed myself to really commit to BW and learn it. 2013 could be the year!