Hi Kirk...a wonderful new friend just gave me a Canon 1V and Fuji 400h film. I love pastel, dreamy pictures and this is what I want to achieve. By setting my aperture to 2.0, rating this film at 100 in camera and on the Sekonic L358 meter, and metering for shadows, would I want to see at least +1/3, +2/3 or even +1 on my exposure compensation reading? If I don't see this, and my exposure was still at 0, would I want to change my shutter speed until I see a change in my overexposure?
If you are using your meter correctly - and it looks like you are - I would just ignore the in-camera meter completely. I never look at mine anymore.
The problem with an in-camera meter is that it is easily fooled by specular light (bright reflections, the sun etc.) and give you the wrong reading.
How do you use the Sekonic L-358 to meter for a scene without people? Say a vast landscape?
I keep the bulb retracted (sucked in) and meter with the bulb facing me. The key is that I am in the same kind of light as the landscape. If I am in the shade and the landscape is in full sun it will be incorrect.
An alternative is to use the Sunny 16 Rule which works really well when you have the time to work it out and the subject is not moving :)
Hey Kirk, how do you 'know' that when metering for 400H you set your light meter at 100 ISO, or that Portra 400 you set your light meter at 200 ISO. Did you just get this from experimenting with your exposures and scans? I am curious because if you have a different type film (Portra 160 for example) how would you estimate what ISO you need to set your meter at for the proper overexposure look...hope this makes sense!
Fuji 400H FOR SURE looks best shot as though it were ISO 100 film. That means intentionally overexposing it 2 stops.
Portra 400 on the other hand….
Well if you look back through my TUmblr and my ealrier Formspring account, you will see that I used to rate it at ISO 200, then eventually ISO 250, and now I rate it at ISO 320.
Over time I learned that Portra 400 is much less yellow and still has very open shadows near box speed. When I used to rate it at ISO 200 for example, I would open up the shadows slightly more but at the cost of a sometimes severe yellow color cast. I see this all the time in scans I look at from others that shoot with Portra 400 at ISO 200 or ISO 100.
All in all, the Kodak series of films should be shot near box speed:
Portra 800 at 400 (or 640 - depends on the quality of light)
Portra 400 at 320
Portra 160 at 100
Kodak Gold 200 at 100 (or 160 - depends on the quality of light)
Fuji films on the other hand need much more overexposure - they won’t get a yellow cast no matter what you do since they have such a cool color palette to begin with. The tradeoff is that they absolutely fall apart if shot even 1/2 stop underexposed. That is why you can’t go wrong overexposing Fuji film about as much as you can get away with in terms of shutter speed.
Hi Kirk, I'm a 19 year old aspiring photographer in the process of building my portfolio. I was recently approached by a new clothing company in town that saw my work and wanted me to take some photos for their website. My question is, how much should I charge them? I am not quite established yet, so I don't want to charge too much, but I do value my photography and equipment so I don't want to give my services away for free. Any ideas of how and what I should charge? Thank you.
You need FotoQuote and FotoBiz ASAP. They are two programs that will help you price your work according to usage and licensing periods. These programs will also help you create invoices, contracts, everything you need to tak eon commercial or stock photography work without an agent.
The FotoBiz website is a bit old-school but trust me it is the very best program to use. I’m not sure what I would do without it and it has paid for itself over and over again by helping me to get paid what I am worth.
Kirk, great stuff here. As you delve into B&W be sure to give the Fuji Neopan 400 a try. One of the most beautiful black and white films I have ever used. Much better than Tri-X IMHO. Pushes well too. They discontinued the 1600, which was the most amazing film at that speed. Just loved it... so sad.
Thank you for your recommendations!
Yeah I do need to explore BW a bit more. I am just so into color that I haven’t really allowed myself to really commit to BW and learn it. 2013 could be the year!
Hi Kirk, I enjoy reading your posts here. I've been a photographer for over 20 years working mostly for newspapers. I've been out on my own for the last 6 years and do about 15 weddings a year. I'd love to start shooting weddings on film and am wondering how to approach the first few clients to make the transition... or do you think it would be better to start shooting film at the weddings I currently have booked?
You answered your own question :)
Honestly, your clients won’t give a cr*p if you shoot film or not. At least not at first. You need to just jump in, shoot film, shoot how you want to shoot with what you have booked already, and start shaping your portfolio, look, and vision.
Clients do not give one whit about technique or HOW you make a photo. All they know is they like the way it LOOKS and they have some kind of EMOTIONAL connection to it.
Good luck! It is a fun business to be in and it will reward you for being yourself.
Hey Kirk have you ever shot the canon 85mm 1.2 ii. To me its the closest thing that comes to the Contax 80mm f2 in DOF at 1.2. Only think is the color rendition and contrast are not as nice. If you have any fixes in LR4 for that specific lens you would recommend?
My presets and hybrid workflow system will do exactly that. They will match perfectly.